Sunday 28 October 2012

Wine's Generous Heart

It's been a year of seismic change in the wine trade and not all for the better.

When the economic crash of 2008 occurred, no-one expected that the wine trade would come through it unscathed. Indeed, many would have hoped that some of the wine trade "hangers on", those people who did not really need to make a profit to justify their existence, would have been weeded out during what has been a harrowing time for the trade. What has been surprising is that it has taken until 2012 for the real fall-out to occur and it has been businesses that would previously have been thought healthy that have perished. The recent demise of such trade stalwarts as Waverley, Stratfords and D&D has given everyone a reality check and reinforced the need to evolve and improve relentlessly.

More poignantly, it has been the wine trade people that have left us that have really made an impact. John Avery MW, Patrick Sandeman and now John Radford (not to mention the many others) have all left us too early and it is this that has given me, and I'm sure others, a wake up call to make sure that we are not just being successful but happy and perhaps most importantly, giving something back.

As the speed of change has increased and the need to "add value" become a mantra for all, I wonder (and stongly suspect) that the more altruistic elements of the business are being sidelined - if not being forgotten completely.

Speaking from experience, companies such as Waverley, played an important role (particularly in Scotland) in trade education, mentoring and interaction with the interested public. As business has got "harder" the ability of any business to donate samples or stock for anything other than what can be measured by results has receded and whilst this is wholly understandable, is it really desirable?

John Radford's death is very sad. Though I did not know him well, I judged with him and was involved in some Spanish masterclasses and always found him to be embued with a generosity of heart and spirit that one could not help but love. Not one to suffer fools gladly I suspect and certainly not one to endure endless visits to nondescript vineyards (he once, on a trip to Rioja, told a friend of mine that he did not want to see an effing vineyard ever again) he was however a brilliant ambassador not only for Spain but for enjoying life.

I first met John when he was lecturing for the WSET on the Diploma course in London. At the end of the lecture, I heard some of the students complaining that there was nothing for them to write notes on, but to have judged the man on whether he stuck to the syllabus was to have underestimated John. I, and I'm sure many others, left that lecture utterly captivated by the prospect of visiting Spain and enjoying the country (and its food and wine) just a fraction of how much John had so obviously enjoyed it.

John came across as totally non-commercial, utterly passionate and determined to enjoy life. His time was given generously  and as a result he inspired countless wine trade fledgelings. I for one will be eternally grateful to John for inspiring me to not only love wine but to love the wines of Spain.

Moreover, the death of John, will help me, and others, reflect on the fact that at this time of major change in the industry, we all need to re-double our efforts to give of our enthusiasm, knowledge and passion as generously as John have his so that the wine business is as colourful, exciting and captivating as our predecessors ensured it was for us.

John Radford RIP

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